Best Food In China

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Xinjiang cuisine is the food of the Uyghurs (Uyghur Yemekliri), known for cooking fiery lamb kebabs and homemade noodles. As Uyghurs are Sunni Muslim Turks, the food is predominantly halal and not surprisingly very similar in taste and preparation to Turkish cuisine. There have been rumors that Xinjiang produces millions of tons of beef and mutton but no vegetables at all. It sounds primitive but this perception is partly true, because the nomads had to eat meat as their staple food, due to their special way of living, and rarity of vegetables in these lands, due to the long winters.

Today, Xinjiang cuisine is fast becoming a popular flavor in China. Located in the bustling restaurant district of Xujiahui, Yeshari Xinjiang Restaurant is a vivid testament to this growing popularity. For a Tuesday evening, I was surprised to see a full-house with customers patiently queuing in wait for the next available table. Just off the main street, Yeshari has a functional appearance, essentially a brightly lit space with rows of table filled with customers enjoying the barbequed meats and spicy ensemble.

Xinjiang people are very practical about their food. For them, the taste is more important than appearance. The “shouzhuafan”, or “mutton with rice that you eat with your fingers”, has been popular for nearly thousands of years. The plain-looking “Banmian”, or “seasoned cold noodles”, never gets old. And there is the “Dapanji”, or “spicy chicken served on a huge plate”, the best-known Xinjiang dish throughout China. Clearly, the practicality prevails successfully at Yeshari, the prices are very reasonable and the portions large and appetizing. Albeit the atmosphere is on the rowdy side but a sure winner for group party dinners flowing with beer and revelry.

On the menu are meat and vegetables, cold dishes and hot dishes, pasta, tea and alcohol, and of course the barbecue. The vast grasslands in Xinjiang breed millions of cattle, sheep and horses, and produce plenty of fresh milk. The oases yield an abundance of wheat, corn and fruits, as well as various kinds of vegetables, such as carrots, potatoes, onions and fennel. These local products dictate that Xinjiang cuisine is mainly about meat and pasta. Though I didn’t see horse on the menu or at least a photo of a horse, I was marveling at the photo of an entire roast lamb, literally, including ears, head, legs and hooves. This special order, priced at RMB 888 is a real deal for wedding banquets but requires 1 day advance order.

There is no need to worry about starters as every dish arrive at the same time. Aside from the previously mentioned dapanji (big chicken plate, the traditional favorites are shousi beef, lamb yakitori and roast leg of lamb. Most dishes are accompanied by noodles which look and taste very much like Italian tagliatelle. Did anyone tell the Italians that Chinese invented the pasta first?

Yeshari is leaning more towards a Xinjiang-Han cuisine style, which is a lighter version but not that dishes are any less spicy. I was quite impressed by the beverages as I tasted a Xinjiang white wine that came out of a beer bottle but tasted like an acceptable sweet dessert wine. Not bad for RMB 38. Another house specialty is the Xinjiang milk tea, which reminded me of a nostalgic malt beverage called Horlicks.
Overall, a meal at Yeshari is not just an awakening for the taste buds but a cultural experience of Chinese Muslim food that reminds us that we are so lucky to be in a country that offers cuisine in a multicultural environment.

-by Brian Sun

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