Best Food In China

Location

"The legendary Shangri-La Hotel, Hangzhou stands on the beautiful north shore of Hangzhou's famous West Lake, overlooking Solitary Hill Island and the graceful Xiling Bridge, in a setting that offers guests scenic grandeur, unsurpassed comfort and secluded tranquility."

These are the words that welcome the viewer to the Shangri-La Hangzhou Hotel and Resort home page. Along with some regal-looking graphics adorning the site, it certainly sets the tone for a high level of expectation. Fortunately, I was invited to try "Peppino" (Continental Restaurant) to find out for myself!

I've been lucky to try quite a few nice meals at a variety of restaurants as I've wandered through China, and I certainly love Chinese food... but I have to admit, the prospect of having dinner in an establishment that would be a departure from the usual myriad of cultural trademarks that define the typical experience for foreigners dining in China was... well, it was something that I have not really had for almost two-and-a-half years. In fact, I come from the Hotel and Hospitality Industry, but I don't tend to stay at the swanky spots when I'm off on an adventure... I almost always favor the street-level reality that makes life in China such a unique experience. Even though my former life as a Chef in a Four-Star, Four-Diamond hotel has left me with indelible memories of high-level Western cuisine... these days, I simply don't bother to seek out the "Western food places" when I want to eat.

That being said, I was really excited to get some food that wasn't Chinese. As I climbed the steps leading to Peppino, my nose was greeted by the familiar scent of smoke from a wood-burning oven. It was a nice surprise, considering it may actually be the only one of its size in this city. Flames leaped within its cavernous mouth, and cast flickering shadows on the walls, and I instantly felt at ease when I made my way through the reception area, and was enthusiastically greeted by Mr. Raymond Chan, Director of Food and Beverage. After a brisk handshake, he led me to my table, and summoned the General Manager. I eyed a nearby display rack of wine bottles as I settled into my seat, and soon found myself face-to-face with the extremely personable Mr. Michael Hendler.

It's a rare opportunity to have the chance to relax and hold a conversation with the General Manager of a world-class hotel, and I have learned that the GM truly sets the scene in any major hotel or resort property. Some are stiff, 'Old-World', and chillingly dignified in their demeanor... on the opposite end of the spectrum, some are more like frenzied politicians, looking to snag a few new supporters. Whatever the personality of the GM is, the hotel reverberates with the signals put out by this venerable leader of the team, and it is immediately clear to the casual observer when something is being done right. There's a sort of calm in the air, where the staff is not tense or nervous, but rather well-orchestrated and smooth in their movements. Practice certainly does make perfect, and all aspects of the Hospitality Industry are enmeshed with some form of theatrics, since the goal is to make the overall experience a satisfaction to every guest who arrives through the front door. Shangri-La Hangzhou has this quality about it, and I was highly pleased to find that my few minutes with Mr. Hendler would reveal something more... as it turns out, he was a Chef in the past. Since 1969, the Belgium native was busy ascending the ranks in the kitchen, and in 1979 he arrived in Hong Kong with a serious passion for food, and a desire to take on cultural challenges that make my meanderings through China seem like a guided holiday tour. His career path changed in 1989, which means that after almost 20 years of international cooking, he had seen and done a lot as a guest in the People's Republic.

With a wave of his hand, he ordered a glass of Italian Pinot Grigio for us, and we talked for a while longer, before the food arrived. There were long, crisp, upright tendrils of assorted Grissini in the center of the table, and a pair of tiny ceramic bowls containing Olive Tapanade and Sweet Cream Butter. Pizza Margherita was the first dish to arrive, and I instantly caught the tangy scent of cheese and tomato sauce as a piece was put in front of me. A crisp crust and paper-thin slices of Prosciutto made it a tough act to follow, but soon there were a pair of serving bowls brought forth, one containing Penne Fra Diavolo, the other Seafood Linguine. I am especially keen on Penne pasta, and this dish was richly coated with sauce that delivered a slight bite from small crumbles of Italian sausage and red peppers. My greatest pleasure came to me as I realized that I was eating food scented with rosemary, that wonderful herb that never seems to make it onto the plates of Chinese fare. Next came the Beef Filet Mignon, a classic staple of any proper restaurant, and an Oven-roasted Cod en Papillote that really surprised me with its classical simplicity. This particular style of food preparation is not so common these days, and I can't overstate how effective it is at giving the flavors of a dish added concentration and finesse that modern methods don't. Our attendant deftly maneuvered her knife and fork as she pulled the outer paper wrapping away to let the steam escape, and opened it up for easy access. As a perfect ending to an excellent meal, Crème Brulee with Cognac was paired with a bowl of Warm Seasonal Fruit Compote with Ice Cream. Our host, Mr. Chan, lit the brandy to caramelize the sugar on top of the Crème, and suddenly the immediate area was engulfed in the heady perfume of its scent. Lastly, there was a chilled shot glass of Limoncello to cap off the dinner. If I were given this drink ten years ago, I would have tossed it back before Mr. Chan could finish saying "cheers"... nowadays, I am not much of a drinker, but I could appreciate the scent of cloves and cinnamon as I sipped the extremely potent lemon liquor. Mr. Chan chuckled and told me that this was a special locally-produced item; however, I would bet that most people can't tell the difference between it, and the real thing from Italy.

After saying goodnight to Mr. Hendler, we spent a few minutes with Mr. Chan, who was more than happy to help me learn more about the Shangri-La Hotel, and the service levels one can expect. A very systematic approach is taken to ensure consistency, since there are hotels in over 20 countries, and the goal is to create an atmosphere that always delivers the Shangri-La style to the guest, regardless of location. Staff is trained on-site, and from what I saw, they are trained effectively. There wasn't anything clumsy or awkward about the evening, and I mused over the fact that I might have forgotten what part of the world I was in, since I would pick up the distant chatter from adjoining tables in Chinese, German, French, and English... this only served to add to the uniqueness of the moment. I asked the attendant at our table how long she has been with the hotel, and she replied that she has been their employee for four years. Throughout the course of the evening, I saw a few tables come and go, and it seemed that everyone in the restaurant was enjoying a very laid-back feeling that was more like a night of dinner and drinks after a tough day at the office, rather than a full-on dining experience. I liked that, because for me there is nothing better than having the option of getting away from the hectic and often beleaguering life of a foreigner in China, to find comfort and familiarity in a setting that doesn't ask you to provide anything... except an appetite.

Special thanks to Mr. Michael Hendler, Mr. Raymond Chan, the staff at Peppino, and Maggie Yee. Photos courtesy of Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts.

by Rueben Marley

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