Shoka
Near Jing’an Temple in the hip Loft 98 development that is home to all-you-can-eat tapas restaurant Cantine and the gourmet deli shop DeliSH, Shoka offers an enticing take on Japanese that combines the most popular conventions of other local restaurants. Mainly, the all-you-can-eat Japanese feast and a long list of creative hand rolls and sake cocktails with playful names.
For 138 RMB, diners can select their all-you-can-eat dishes from a shortened menu and receive one beverage. But for a mere 50 RMB more (188 RMB), diners have free reign over most of the menu (some larger items, like hotpot, not included) with unlimited beer, sake or soft drinks to ensure maximum gastric satisfaction and value-for-money. Take note: at Shoka, it’s an all-for-one-and-one-for-all deal where everyone at the table must partake in the all-you-can-eat bonanza; otherwise it’s a la carte.
Shoka’s sashimi was quite impressive. The maguro (tuna, 78 RMB) was soft, delicate, and melted on the tongue. Sake (salmon, 62 RMB) was equally soft, not at all stringy, and delicious. Kanpachi (yellowtail, 55 RMB) and shime saba (mackerel, 30 RMB) were both savory and naturally sweet, with a delightful hint of salty seawater. Tako (octopus, 50 RMB) and shiro maguro (white albacore tuna, 75 RMB) completed the sashimi assortment, a perfect start to a meal that would not disappoint.
Their cooked food was also great. Sweet chicken teriyaki (wafu chiking yaki, 40 RMB) was tender and succulent. The buttery steak (gyu nikku butteryaki, 60 RMB) was silky smooth, doused in a creamy rich miso sauce and dotted with mushrooms and leafy greens. Finally, the grilled cod (sai kyo yaki gindara, 75 RMB) was naturally sweet and dripping with buttery juices. At this point, diners might risk filling up too quickly because everything up to this point must be tasted. However, pace is the trick and the signature sushi rolls haven’t even made their appearance yet.
The most popular of these rolls is the Crab Louie (39 RMB/4 pieces or 62 RMB/8 pieces), which is filled with smoky crab, deep-fried kelp, tuna and avocado, and topped with mayo, chives and popping fish eggs. The soft avocado, crunchy kelp and warm crab resulted in a texture and temperature party in my mouth. With 26 varieties of roll, incorporating ingredients as far-reaching as sour plum, salmon skin, mango, cheese, foie gras, and the glorious otoro (tuna belly), it may be wise to bring a big group of friends so that the sampling opportunity is maximized.
If there’s any room left, their miso soup – with fresh clams and imported nameko mushrooms – and salads with homemade plum dressing are actually well worth a try.
With great service, a friendly and dedicated general manager, an upbeat atmosphere and a hip music selection (contemporary French songs, as well as artists like Radiohead, M.I.A., Feist thrown in for good measure), Shoka is a great place to hang out, relax, and eat well without breaking the bank. They even offer sushi-making classes (200 RMB/person); just give them a call and reserve a spot.
For the price of a couple rolls at a certain sushi roll joint near Hengshan Road, diners at Shoka can order as many rolls as they desire without worrying about having enough taxi fare to return home afterwards. With the addition of their top-notch sashimi and grilled meats, Shoka certainly has potential to become the reigning master of the Shanghai all-you-can-eat Japanese scene.
*Note: prices listed in the review are for single orders from the a la carte menu.
Neil Yeung
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