Best Food In China

Location

As the old crimson draped Chinese lanterns swung overhead in the blustery autumn wind, I hopped across an immaculate lawn and into the lively jaw of Puxi’s Face Bar in the Ruijin Hotel and Garden Complex. Not ready to shrug off the grasp of an early winter’s angry hold, I wrapped my knuckles on the bar and was soon drinking a vodka-laden Shanghai Blues.

The bar, deep burgundies and plush lounge seats was beginning to fill, noisy with the day’s conversation and hearty laughter. With drink in hand, my eyes pulled in every direction, admiring the amazing South-East Asia décor, Buddhas to the left of me, Buddhas to the right of me – an auspicious meal for sure - I was escorted to the second floor and into one of the jewels of Face Bar’s crown, La Na Thai. Heels stepping loudly on the wooden planks that carried a history that had seen the likes of Japanese, Kuomintang, Communist, and now entrepreneurial rule, we passed the main dining room, and entered a long room designed for romantic couples. Tonight I dined with my one true love, my appetite.

Quieter than the bustling downstairs lounge and bar, the softer, gentler atmosphere was welcoming. At the wooden table, crystal wine glasses, similar to inverted tear drops, shined brightly below the twisting miniature, upside-down illuminated ‘lotus’ lights, each its own miniature star. It was time to experience Thailand. On the recommendation of the waiter, the Face Sling, tropical paradise, palm branch and all, in a tall, square glass, quickly worked its magic, erasing the roaring winds and rain pattering on the elegant window pains. Out came the first dish, a unique presentation of five small dishes: dried shrimp, garlic, ginger, nuts, and a bowl of tamari sweet and sour (imagine thick soy) in the middle, all to be placed into veggie leaves and plunked into your mouth.

Next, Gai Hor Bai. Pandan Chicken, lightly fired, boneless chunks of meat, wrapped in crispy pandan leaves, excellent for dipping into the sweet sauce which is made from pure sugar and actual pandan leaves.

Chicken, beef, and pork skewers, which make for pleasant additions when mixed with the two sauces – traditional Thai peanut sauce, a thicker and pastier consistency allow you to appreciate its in-house preparation, and a Thai relish – cucumber, red onion, and spicy red chili peppers.

A staff favorite, Moo Krob Nam Prik Paow, crispy pork, barbecued than fried, tangy sweet and sour sauce the perfect dressing, is an excellent treat.

If you haven’t tried duck with curry, now’s your chance. Lan Na Gaeng Phed Yang is a red curry, with healthy slices of duck, pineapple, and cherry tomatoes. The spicy curry dresses the duck in a fiery ‘sarong’, erasing any greasy or fatty side-effects that are usually felt when enjoying duck.

Pla Muk Yang, sliced perpendicular along the squid’s wide flank, you may believe that La Na serves colossal squid, as the smoothest, freshest slices of calamari await your bronzed fork. Not covered in any sauces or enriched with seasoning, the diner can taste real calamari. And, with another tap of their magic wand, they have erased the fishiness that often can accompany this dish. But, the garlic and chili sauce does make for a pleasant addition, so please dip away.

Goong Ma Kham, while the various buddhas stationed throughout La Na may bring luck and keep away bad spirits, these two sea-faring gods bring immediate reward, the tangy King Prawns. Butterflied and slathered in tamarind sauce, their white, meaty sacrifices are plucked out and devoured quickly. Even the average consumer will quickly graduate to that of connoisseur.

Close an elegant evening with crowd-pleasers such as the Floating Lotus Seed, steamed pumpkin and taro, mixed with sticky rice served in hot coconut milk or the crunchy ruby water chestnut, served in more coconut milk and garnished with strips of jack fruit.

Sadly, this Shanghail icon will be going through a year long renovation before being moved to a new location, so to pay your final respects to Face Bar, Puxi, make your move before December 15th 2008, as time is running out.

by Kevin Smith

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