Best Food In China

Location

• 2nd floor - Contemporary Sichuan fare in Chinese Lounge and Seafood Bar
• 3rd floor – Private Banquet Halls and Suites
•4th floor – Lan Club - French fine dining by Michelin Chef Yves Mattagne

LAN Club Shanghai is a new luxury addition to the gentrified Bund district of Guangdong Road. Within the proximity of high-brow establishments such as 3 on the Bund and 5 on the Bund, LAN Club is truly spoiling the city socialites for choice and making its mark with the in-crowd.

Situated at the junction of Sichuan and Guangdong Road, LAN Club occupies a four storey 5000 sqm colonial building with an impressive façade that could well have been a bank or government house in 1930s Shanghai.

LAN’s interior is one of the main highlights, best described as eclectic, with each floor representing its signature theme from traditional European to avant-garde Chinese elements. Clever use of unique fixtures, such as birdcage lanterns and wall-to-wall Ming-style porcelain vases exude fluid notions of art and design. It was no surprise to hear that LAN was an interior design project managed by Patrick Gilles and Dorothee Boissier, a highly renowned international design team with portfolios including Louis Vuitton, Jean-Paul Gaultier and New York top restaurants, Wakiya and Buddakan.

With just one evening to soak up LAN’s offerings, I could only dine in the Chinese restaurant on the 2nd floor. I did sweep through the other floors, which tempted me to return one Sunday afternoon to savor the afternoon tea on their 4th floor conservatory hall. The Seafood Bar trumpeting a futuristic live jelly fish tank sets a calming liquid atmosphere. For gentlemanly discussions, the Reading Bar, adorned with oak furnishings and plush leather armchairs, creates a perfect setting over a drop of scotch. Thus, across the 4 floors, there will be either a banquet suite, bar top, window seat or discreet corner to welcome the discerning guest.

My 7-course meal was an aesthetic and visual experience. Following LAN’s roots in the renowned South Beauty Group, it is natural that the menu leans towards the spicy and fragrant elements of Sichuan fare. The Head Chef of Chinese Cuisine is Mr. Wu Musheng, the award winning Cordon Bleu chef, who has been in the industry for 20 years, 6 of which with the South Beauty Group.

For the traditionalist, there may be some disappointment that entrees are not the typical large Chinese portions or fiery Sichuan spices that engorge the taste buds. Yet, for the adventurous, it is a treat to experience the fusion of Western concepts with Chinese cuisine. The intent is to experience the taste of the moment rather than engage in a glutton’s expedition. My personal highlights were the pumpkin and spinach soup, a simple dish but beautifully presented with the split of green and pumpkin orange in the Taoist symbol of Yin and Yang. The pan-fried cod on a soft bed of mixed rice, nuts and dates drizzled with sautéed mushroom sauce is another worthy entrée. Indeed, not every dish needs to be spicy but old favorites such as sautéed giant prawn in Sichuan peppers and chilli sauce is always welcomed. There is no shortage of choices when it comes to the wine list and picking a cool dry Australian Chardonnay was an excellent match for the seafood and spicy entrées.

Though dining in extravagant surroundings, the Chinese dining room still retains the warmth and allure of a busy canteen. The seating layout encourages coziness with long pews that can seat 3 to 4 guests in a row. Thus, for those needing privacy, request for a private suite on the 3rd storey.

Overall, LAN is currently the in-place for the in-crowd of Shanghai. The concept is an eclectic merge of cultures but artfully presented to pique the interests of today’s socialites and fickle-minded gourmands.

Price?Over 600 per person (without large consumption of alcoholic beverage)

by Brian Sun

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