Best Food In China

Walking through the luxurious Jin Jiang hotel towards the entrance of its restaurant, Jin Lu, one can’t help but notice an eye-catching poster for the restaurant that reads “Everything You Imagine Chinese Dining to Be…Not” and another that states “Taking Chinese Dining to a New Dimension”. Perhaps these phrases seem vague as one enters, but after dining at Jin Lu, it all becomes perfectly clear. Appropriately described as a modern Chinese fusion restaurant, Jin Lu revitalizes the traditional Chinese dining that we all know through fresh and innovative developments. And the results are outstanding. Everything at Jin Lu, from décor to dessert, is executed with deliciously seamless perfection.

Jin Lu’s theme of modern Chinese fusion confronts one as soon as one enters the stylish dining room. Sky-high ceilings and sleek, stylish white leather banquettes are coupled with traditional Oriental carved-wood chairs. The servers’ traditional qipaos are updated with splashes of hot pink and more revealing seam-lines. And this concept of contemporary Chinese continues well into the restaurant’s exceptional dishes.

The Chicken and Melon appetizer consists of a bite-sized round of winter melon, a staple in traditional Chinese cooking, topped with diced chicken marinated in a Thai-style dressing, garnished with mango and dill. Altogether served in a Chinese soup-spoon, it is intended to be eaten all at once, so that the tangy and spicy flavour of the chicken is perfectly offset by the juicy sweetness that comes with biting into the crisp melon.

Another appetizer, The Chinoise Story’s Combinations, is a varied sampling of four cold appetizers. Served on a long white horizontal dish, the left side begins with rounds of fresh and crispy shan yao, a Chinese white yam, drizzled in a sweet raspberry sauce. Next, is a mound of finely diced tofu and malantou, a wild Chinese herb, all tossed in a clean sesame oil dressing and served atop a thin slice of blanched tomato. Third is the bite-size slices of barbequed pork. Crispy, sweet and flavourful skin, tender meat and smooth ribbons of fat are perfectly balanced, making this a truly delectable tasting of the classic Chinese dish. And finally there is the cubed beef in a sweet and spicy orange sauce, served in a boat of crisp-fried cheese.

The next dish, Selected Mushrooms and Fungus Served in a Paper Bag with Superior Mushroom Consomme is outstanding; a simple and beautiful exposition of the essence of mushroom. The dark brown consommé is served naked, allowing one to clearly taste its deep and warming mushroom flavour. Alongside the consommé, served in a paper bag that the mushrooms have been steamed in, is a varied combination of shiitake, enoki and buttons, sliced and simply seasoned with fresh garlic and ginger to enhance their flavour. Despite, or perhaps in light of this dish’s simplicity, the dual display of mushrooms, in contrasting liquid and solid presentations, is a delectable experience for the senses.

Finally, one must try Jin Lu’s fish dishes. The Braised Boneless Fish Head with Mushrooms and Pickled Lantern Chillis is prepared exquisitely. The mild saltiness of the chicken stock based sauce and the slow, warming heat of the pickled chillis serve to highlight the freshness and flavour of the tender fish meat. One cannot help but scoop up every last drop of this dish. There is also the Baked Cod with Stir Fried Egg White and Caramelized Vintage Dark Vinegar. The seemingly odd ingredient pairing can be explained by a traditional Chinese cooking belief that eggs dressed with vinegar will taste like crab meat. While its likeness to crab can be debated, Jin Lu’s gourmet pairing of egg whites and vintage vinegar is undoubtedly delicious. Topped with a sweet barbeque sauced piece of fresh cod sprinkled with sesame seeds, this dish is a harmony of flavours for the palate.

Jin Lu’s innovative and modern takes on traditional Chinese dishes, coupled with superior quality ingredients and professional service, is certainly taking Chinese dining to a new dimension. A food-lover’s stay in Shanghai must include a visit to this exceptional restaurant.

Price: RMB 300-400 per head

Written by Laura Siperman
Photo by Wang Ying

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