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Its moniker captured in an art deco green stained-glass façade, walking through the old, wooden doors of Kathleen's 5 was almost like stepping back in time.

Its moniker captured in an art deco green stained-glass façade, walking through the old, wooden doors of Kathleen’s 5 was almost like stepping back in time. At the heart of this magnificent city, overlooking People’s Square, the restaurant is housed in what was once the clubhouse of the iconic Shanghai Racecourse, the quintessence of colonial Shanghai. Echoes rang of a 1930s heyday, of walking into a bar full of martini sippers and cigar smokers watching races being rode out in the summer haze.

Inside, and to my slight disappointment, a contemporary theme asserts itself more forcefully, leaving the art deco throwback behind. The modern décor is nevertheless simple and fresh, with low lighting creating a romantic and intimate atmosphere. On the terrace of this famed building, which also houses the Shanghai Art Museum, you can watch the sun go down while admiring the amazing view.

The menu created is similarly à la mode, an innovative fusion incorporating a number of ingredients and cooking styles. With an emphasis on quality and in-season produce, the Australian chef changes its menu frequently to keep it new, fresh and exciting. After perusing the menu for quite some time, I began with braised giant octopus, with chorizo, rock melon and salsa verde (80 RMB), which made for a great combination of flavours, well accompanied by the salsa verde.

A constant stream of fresh warm bread followed, interrupted by my main course of poached veal tenderloin with goose liver and cabbage black truffle, proscuitto and Jerusalem artichoke puree (280 RMB). In true fine dining style of serving miniature portions on oversized plates, the veal was beautifully arranged in the centre of the dish, yet I felt the large number of flavours slightly over-complicated the dish, and these flavours weren’t adequately portioned enough to make an impact. In one bite, the goose liver disappeared down my throat before I could even realise what it was. Even so, the veal was cooked to perfection, flavoursome, tender and coated in a moreish rich sauce.

Dessert arrived, and I polished off the signature K5 tasting plate (RMB148 for two people) within minutes. Featuring four of the dishes on the dessert menu, I was rather partial to the roast apple soufflé with burnt caramel sauce, which was heavenly, and the vanilla bean panna cotta with honey poached pear in sweet wine jelly and streusel. As with the main course, the name alone is a bit of a mouthful, but all the same it was an innovative and delicious dessert.

It is worth mentioning that should you not fancy anything to eat (although why ever would you not?), the restaurant’s bar boasts an extensive cocktail and wine list, and has preserved the old clubhouse bar for cosy winters in, leaving the terrace for warm, blissful summers.

Kathleen’s 5 has everything a contemporary fine dining establishment should have, a pleasant atmosphere, fantastic setting, attentive service (although I’d recommend employing a sommelier) and most importantly, good food, albeit over-the-top. As watched Shanghai pass by beneath me in its all its luminescent glory, I enjoyed my meal thoroughly, and will certainly be coming back.

-by Katherine Petty

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