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At Fengbozhuang, food culture meets martial arts traditions. Come here for an out-of-the-ordinary dining experience, or bring overseas visitors who are up for an authentic Chinese meal - provided they can tolerate a certain noise level!

Every language has certain words that are characteristic to the point of being virtually untranslatable. In Chinese, “renao” is one of these words. Being a composite of the Mandarin terms for “hot” and “noisy”, “renao” can best be described as “hustle and bustle”, or – according to one dictionary - “to bustle with noise and excitement”. As such, “renao” is the only word I know that does justice to the Beijing branch of the Fengbozhuang restaurant chain. Frankly speaking, if my first visit to Fengbozhuang had been with a group of fellow Europeans, our immediate reaction would probably have been to leave again and find a different, more “Westernised” restaurant. However, I was with a Chinese colleague. Meandering between tightly packed wooden tables, where groups of Chinese friends were obviously having a good time, and trying not to collide with members of staff, who kept on yelling orders to each other, we made our way to the stairway leading up to the second floor, ducking our heads whenever necessary.

Having reached the upper floor, we were seated at one of the plain wooden tables and took some time to look around. Fengbozhuang´s interior is elaborately decorated with bamboo mats, red lanterns, calligraphies, pencil drawings, and various kung fu weapons. In general, Fengbozhuang pays tribute to kung fu in a number of ways. The waiting staff wear black and yellow kung fu uniforms; having a meal is seen as a form of “practicing one's kung fu”; and customers are addressed as “swordsmen” or “swordswomen”, respectively.

Placing an order at Fengbozhuang is an adventure in its own right. All dishes take their names from the novels of the best-selling martial arts writer Jin Yong. To make things even more exciting, the owner has decided to do without a printed menu. Consequently, “swordsmen” and “swordswomen” rely on the staff, who – after inquiring about personal likes and dislikes – will suggest various dishes. (In case your waiter or waitress misjudged you, exchanging dishes is no problem).

Consuming Fengbozhuang´s kung fu specialities on a porcelain plate with golden decor would, of course, be a breach of style. Therefore, small, simple plates and shallow drinking cups made from brown clay are used.

As attentive readers may have realized, I was not exactly taken by Fengbozhuang up until this point. But then, the food arrived. As a starter, we were offered glutinous rice dumplings with a meat and egg filling. This interesting combination turned out to be a real taste-bud teaser, making us wonder what to expect next. In accordance with Chinese tradition, we had several main courses: Mutton served in a sturdy wooden pot; chicken mixed with pieces of apple; a delicately seasoned fish; and two delightfully fresh vegetable side dishes. Even though the dishes were simple, each one relying on a small number of fresh ingredients, the waiters had done an excellent job in estimating our taste and compiling a meal that left us feeling thoroughly invigorated, yet without any unpleasant feelings of fullness.

It may well be that Fenbozhuang does not meet everybody´s expectations. For instance, if you are looking to impress a business partner, or going on a date, be advised that other restaurants will be more suitable. However, Fengbozhuang is paradise for fans of martial arts, and provides a one-of-a-kind experience for overseas visitors longing to learn more about authentic Chinese food culture. At very reasonable prices – the average dish costs about 25 yuan – you are unlikely to regret a visit to Fengbozhuang.

- by Sarah Pfleger

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