Best Food In China

Location

Hearing that Aman was a small, recently opened resort located on the grounds of the Summer Palace was akin to hearing that a hotel had been built next to the Eiffel Tower; for the unacquainted, the Summer Palace is one of Beijing’s must-visit destinations, a site chosen for an imperial retreat and a site deemed worthy of the coveted UNESCO world heritage label.

As such we were half prepared to see throngs of tourists milling about outside the resort. Not so. From the outside, the entrance to Aman rises up as an admittedly impressive archway tended on either side by two stone lions. However, the only indication that this is an ultra luxurious resort is the smiling white-garbed staff member standing outside; there are no signs or logos to speak of. Aman’s guests come to Aman for peace and quiet (in fact, Aman’s name means precisely that), and as we were greeted and handed an intricate map of the grounds it became rapidly apparent that that is what’s on hand.

A total of fifteen plus courtyards, and a myriad of small walkways, formal gardens and pools, are host to only 51 rooms, with several of the more luxurious courtyards capable of being rented out to individual parties. In addition, the three restaurants on the grounds ensure guests will be presented with both luxury and privacy throughout the entirety of their stay.

We spent the first hour or so exploring these ancient buildings, greeted periodically by staff that knew not only our names, but also which rooms we were staying in, and where we’d be dining that evening. We walked past a tea ceremony in progress, a small pond alive with fish, and a live pipa player. We walked past a staff member wheeling away guests’ luggage on a specially designed pushcart, and guests lounging outside with cigars in carefully tended gardens. Everywhere we went we were presented with scenes of quiet, peaceful luxury.

The intricate outside design is characteristic of the Qing dynasty and features many of the drawings found on the pagodas and pavilion of the adjacent Summer Palace. Many of these buildings are restored versions of ones that have been standing for over 120 years and still retain their original wooden infrastructure. One can truly feel the history of these buildings that so many years ago served as waiting rooms and kitchens for the Empress Dowager Cixi.

If the ground floor of Aman is classical, the underground is ultra modern. We were led downstairs past a 25m swimming pool, a fresh juice bar, a hair parlor, a state of the art gym, a private movie theatre, an international standard squash court, etc… The list goes on. One of Aman’s guest’s once spent 3 days straight on the premises, and we quickly understood how this could be done.

Following our tour, we were led to our rooms. Although the outside of the buildings are distinctly Qing, the inside are just as distinctly Ming and characterized by simple elegance and ample use of polished elm wood. Of course, all the modern amenities are there too. Noteworthy aspects included large mirrors in the three-room bathroom, a stand alone tub, intricate lighting, fast wireless internet, and a showerhead that pours directly down on top of you and feels like rain.

Extreme attention was paid to the details, from the complimentary copy of the Herald Tribune, to the large candles placed next to the tub and the in-room calligraphy set. Peaceful music was left on to greet us, and small warm snacks along with a handwritten greeting left on the table to await our arrival.

We freshened up and headed for The Grill – please see the separate review for details – which in turn left us thoroughly peaceful and content. We retired early, with an eye on exploring the Summer Palace early in the morning.

Aman has it's own private entrance to the Summer Palace grounds. We were provided with a phone that could alert the doormen of our coming and going, and then let out via a small door in the massive wall that surrounds Aman. A few passerbyes shot us inquisitive looks as we popped out directly out onto one of the Summer Palace’s main walkways. After a lovely walk around the Kunming lake, and past the famous pavilions, we used our phones to announce our return, and once more the small door in the wall open, and we returned to the sanctuary that is Aman, greeted with fresh towelettes.

We headed for a delightful lunch at the French-Japanese Anoki restaurant (again, please see separate review for details), and then ended out stay at Aman with a movie in their private movie theater. This theater has a large selection of movies on offer, and offers all the pluses of a normal cinema while also allowing for such luxuries as complete privacy and bathroom pauses. Reclining in their cushy dark black leather chairs with complementary popcorn felt like the height of luxury after our walk and our lunch.

The activities mentioned thus far only skim the surface of what Aman has to offer; a day was not enough to experience it all. It truly is a magical place, and one that caught our attention at every turn. It has given us a memory that will last a lifetime.

- by Royce Ferguson

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