Best Food In China

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There is little better in life than drinking excellent wine and savoring a big juicy slab of steak. The Grill at Aman provides exactly this, and it does so in the most memorable and relaxing of settings.

We sat outside in a small courtyard under ancient Ming dynasty style eaves, and looked out over a scene of water, bamboo and intricately latticed wooden walls. We sampled a mixed basket of warm breads and a selection of nuts and watched the rays of the setting sun flicker down around us, climbing up and down massive wooden pillars and playing over the surface of a nearby pool. The soulful notes of a live pipa player and the faint gurgle of water created a surreal ambience, and before we knew it, the first course had arrived.

The “Pan-Roasted Sea Scallops with Confit of Pork Belly” (150 RMB) was minimalist in presentation and supremely elegant. Lightly seared scallops were placed strategically above a sharp drizzle of sweet apple slaw, and a curry emulsion added a touch of tang to the otherwise smooth and rich flavor of the scallops.

Building upon the light foundations of our starters came the first of our mains: a “NY Strip Steak” (420 RMB). The daintier first portions had thoroughly whetted our appetites, and a thick rich juicy steak was just what we felt like. At 12 oz, our steak was satisfyingly large and came exactly as ordered, with a warm red center. A red wine reduction sauce provided a classic accompaniment, and three types of flakey sea salt were on hand to bring out all of the steak’s flavors and add that key bit of crunch.

We were recommended an excellent glass of Cabernet Sauvignon to go with the meat. This reviewer professes to fully appreciate but not understand wine. However, it was not hard to understand that Aman’s wine list was impressive with over 230 reds and whites handpicked for Aman, many of them of them seeing the light of day in China for the first time.

The second of our mains, in keeping with the grill theme was a portion of “Land and Sea” (550 RMB), featuring a petit filet of beef tenderloin and a respectable chunk of Atlantic lobster. The presentation was again immaculate, with the lobster delicately propped upon the filet of beef – see attached picture.

Both mains were served alongside a portion of “Asparagus and Prosciutto Crisps” (48RMB). Finding the more traditional prosciutto wrapped asparagus too overpowering, I was pleasantly struck by these al dente spears that had been just ever so slightly infused with the taste of the prosciutto.

Last but not least came a small assortment of desserts that Michelin trained pastry chef Frank Istel created for us. Our favorites were an innovative Crème Brûlée, which was neither served in small dish nor glazed over with a crispy top but nonetheless excellent, and the lightly sugared churritos with their rich, dark chocolate dip.

We finished with cups of espresso. By this time the sun had set, and we watched as candles were brought out and placed discretely about the courtyard. Lights were turned on around the pool, highlighting the underside of the leaves of the two aptly named “happiness” trees at its center. We finished our meals thoroughly relaxed and content.

Beijing is a busy place. The Grill at Aman offers a very high-end escape from the hustle and bustle. The setting is idyllic and distinctly Chinese. The food is excellent and the service without fault, while the prices are high but still modest by comparable Western standards.

- by Royce Ferguson

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