Best Food In China

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I often find myself talking to other Westerners in China about the concept of 'face.' 'Face' is a concept that we do not have any one word for in English but refers to keeping up appearances and having a sense of dignity vis a vis others. 'Face' is commonly said to be important in societies across East Asia, although I think the concept is useful for talking about society in the West and, for that matter, in most countries.

Essentially, 'face' is about consistency. We have unwritten social rules and when you disobey these rules, you 'lose face' in the eyes of others. The exact rules vary by culture and society; 'face' is linked only to how well you stick to the rules, not specifically to what those rules are. As humans, we like consistency, especially when it comes to maintaining social norms. We also like consistency on an individual level. We like to feel that our actions and decisions fit in to a larger story – what kind of person we are, who our family and group of friends are, what kind of society we come from, etc. That our life has a story and that this story is based on our life values helps us explain who we are.

The Face Group has opened a new restaurant and bar in Shanghai – Little Face Asian Kitchen and Bar. Many people, including other reviewers, have been comparing Little Face to the old Face Bar of Ruijin Lu, doggedly looking for a direct link – essentially claiming that Little Face is the new Face Bar. However, Little Face was never intended to replace Face Bar. Restaurants, like people, like to live consistently within their values and identity. The location, setting, ambiance and menu are all intentionally different. The consistent feature is the management, and the management, putting its name to a new restaurant, wants to keep ‘face’ too.

It might not be brilliant, but it certainly is a good restaurant. Little Face is smartly decorated in a South-East Asian style. There is a bar on the first floor and a restaurant on the second. The place is lit in a self-consciously sophisticated dimness. There were plenty of other customers, but there was a slightly empty feeling about the place, perhaps to do with the spacing of the tables or the height of the ceiling. It is on Donghu Lu, which is a lovely street, easy to get to and near good shops and bars.

The service and food were good, testament to the high standards set by the management. The menu is varied, including Indian, Thai and Chinese dishes. I dislike the sensationalist expectations that many bring to visiting a restaurant – the food and decoration have to be unique and compelling. Although not boring, Little Face is not a headline grabber. The food here is very good and expertly prepared – you would not be disappointed – but it is perhaps nothing very different - not groundbreaking or surprising. I feel this is an asset to the restaurant.

We ate: chicken spring rolls, grilled beef salad with Thai spices, Tom Yum soup, mixed vegetables and shredded chicken with peanut sauce, tandoori lamb, dhal (I like dhal and this was a good one), red snapper in sweet and sour sauce, chicken curry and chicken biryani. We had terrible wine.

The price is reasonable, though not cheap, the food is good and the decoration is not bad. Forget Face Bar (garden, walled premises, brimming with antiques and curios, sense of history), this is Little Face Asian Kitchen, a decent downtown restaurant, respectable food.

- by Charles Prior

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