The Putuo branch of the Radisson Hotel’s recently opened restaurant, Spice Bowl, is well worth a visit for its exquisite pan-Asian fare and warm décor. The interior design is Eastern opulence all over, forming the perfect backdrop to the food.
On arriving, my companion and I were offered three menus to choose from – Thai, Indian, and Japanese. I chose Japanese and my friend chose Thai. Both good selections, as it turned out. Each menu of four courses costs ¥98 including a soft drink, which is great value considering the standard of the food.
My Japanese menu started with a slate containing four nigiris – salmon, tuna, octopus, and boiled prawn. Each was mouthwateringly soft and fresh, including the octopus which can sometimes be chewy. Here it was just as tender as the fish. The sushi rice was just as it should be, and the wasabi tasted as if it had been made on the premises, instead of the fluorescent processed kind that restaurants often served. A nice touch was the soy sauce bowl which was shaped like a sea-shell. As sushi goes, this was among the best I have tasted in Shanghai.
The Thai started was a tangy papaya salad garnished with peanuts and chili – again, very tasty.
Next was the soup course. Mine was a fine miso with big chunks of tofu and silky seaweed, served in an unusual, contemporary red bowl. The Thai soup was tom yam kung – perfectly piquant and sour with a nice selection of vegetables.
Then onto the main courses. The Japanese offering was teriyaki chicken laid onto a melee of shiitake mushrooms and beansprouts, alongside a dome of fluffy rice. The chicken was juicy and plentiful, and the flavour of the teriyaki was a good meld of honey and soy. The Thai main was equally tasty, and it was a toss up as to which was better. The green curry was redolent with lemongrass and spices, and the slices of chicken were really nicely cooked.
Already impressed by the standard and presentation, we were delighted by the desserts. Mine was fruit sushi. Looking at the menu card beforehand, I was skeptical, but this turned out to be one of the most innovative and tasty desserts I’ve had for a long time. It did just what it said on the tin: little slabs of sweet coconut rice topped with sugared fruits including raspberries, strawberries, and pineapple. It was accompanied by a dish of green tea ice cream.
The Thai dessert was a thick slice of pandanus cake. We weren’t sure what ‘pandanus’ was, but the staff explained that it’s a type of Asian tree, also called the screw pine. Whatever it was, it was good! The slice was ringed with a halo of dark, spicy chocolate which went well with the sweet, soft cake.
If the Japanese and Thai menus are anything to go by, the chances are that the Indian selection will be just as good. The Putuo district may not be on the traditional restaurant agenda, but it’s well worth heading up there for a quality pan-Asian dinner at the Spice Bowl. Top tip - go with two friends and get one menu each so you can mix and match!
-by Susie Gordon
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