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True to the spirit of the cultural renaissance, the Renaissance Café experienced a ‘rebirth’ by revamping its menu last month (March 2009), incorporating newly created signature dishes and organic food, including organic wines, for more healthy options. With bold orange encapsulating the new signature items, they are not just easy to spot, but readily assist fickle diners with their choices. Without fail I ventured to order some of these choices on the menu as well as a couple of intriguing a la carte ones, which were not highlighted.

The recommended Oriental Spiced Oxtail Ravioli (¥89) makes an excellent starter, as would the Leavened Batter Prawns ((¥110). Served on a bed of braised spinach, with a light yet creamy Porcini mushroom sauce, the ravioli is absolutely delicious. The ravioli is generously filled with tender, juicy oxtail morsels, which also received the thumbs up from my dining partner, Max. He had ordered the battered prawns but offered to share his starter in exchange for mine. Since his prawns came served with tomato marmalade and a lemon aioli dressing made from egg yolk, olive oil, saffron, lemon with a hint of sugar, why not?

My eye had earlier caught the Thai Style Chicken Bouillon (¥56) on the menu bearing an Eat-Drink-Balance mark simply signifying the dish was carefully prepared as a healthy option. This fragrant soup made with coconut milk, lemongrass, chilli and julienne strips of chicken breast had just the right combination. It was not too spicy nor too sweet. Every Asian woman knows coconut milk is cholesterol laden so how is this bouillon a healthy choice? Executive Chef Michael Rauter has cleverly used coconut shavings to enhance the flavour without actually using coconut milk.

We shared the Greek Style Salad (¥59). With a very generous slice of feta cheese decorated with red wine onions in lemon, tomatoes, cucumber cubes, peppers and olives, I’m glad this was shared leaving room for my main course.

Served with biryani rice, mango chutney and grilled pineapple, the Tandoori Marinated Babyback Pork Spare Ribs (¥110) is highly recommended for those who like their ribs tender, juicy and delicately spiced. These expertly baked pieces of pork slip easily off the ribs, melting in my mouth, surrendering its flavours with each bite.

We complemented our food with a glass of red and white organic wine. Organic wines (¥98 per glass) are made from grapes without chemical fertilizers, pesticides, fungicides and herbicides. There is no manipulation of wines by reverse osmosis, excessive filtration or flavour additives such as oak chips, instead wild yeast is used for fermentation. I highly recommend the Carmen Nativa Chardonnay from Chile and Telmo Rodriguez Dehesa Gago Cosecha from Toro, Spain to accompany the chicken and duck respectively.

I’ve tried many chicken rice dishes in Shanghai but the Hainanese Chicken Rice (¥95) at the Renaissance Café is the one closest to Singapore’s best in flavour and rice texture. The long-grained rice is fragrant, and not too oily, being cooked in chicken stock with ginger and garlic. Authentic condiments like ginger and chilli puree served alongside moist chicken pieces, a chicken-vegetable soup, this dish is both balanced and complete.

Although stuffed, Max and I shared one last dish, the Beijing Duck Calzone (¥92), another of the signature dishes. Who could resist a calzone with succulent pieces of Beijing duck in hoisin sauce, red peppers, pineapple, cilantro and cashew nuts as filling?

We completed our dining experience with a Saffron Coconut Crème Brulee with lemon sorbet and lemon tuille. The saffron and coconut inspiration in this traditional dessert consisting of a rich custard base topped with a layer caramelizing sugar, is simple yet refreshingly delicious.

Perhaps to sum my dining experience with ‘delightfully delicious’ is just not enough. The impeccable service, remarkably presented food and cosy ambience certainly played its part in making this one unforgettable experience. Indeed, many guests and patrons of the Renaissance café have formed bonds with the chefs where requests for a spicier version of a dish can be made upon request.

-by Constance Chew

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