TMSK

Location

Unit 2, Bldg 11, North Block, Xintiandi, Lane 181 Taicang Lu, near Madang Lu //上海太仓路181弄新天地北里11号楼2单元。 Tel:021-6326-2227
Shanghai
China

Pumping a unique river of life through one of Xin Tian Di’s main ventricles, Taiwanese actress-turned artist Liu Li Gong Fang’s newest creation, TMSK, encompasses the very essence of the area while adding a hip, artistic flavor.

Upon entering the restaurant, the guest is greeted with a multicolored glass-tiled bar with jade ‘coins’ covering its front. I took a spin on one of the jade stools and soaked up the ambiance of the first floor. Auspicious Chinese characters lay hidden in the walls and furniture while diners sat alongside a shallow pool and its floating flora.

Like watching an empress cast off her majestic robe to reveal secret beauties that only the inner court may witness, the second floor continued to enchant. Aside from an attractive private room, there is also a main dining room with a well-masked stage. A collection of fifteen or so tables stretch(ed) back along the narrow dining hall. Liu Li’s influence can be felt from floor to ceiling with various crystal art, each a symbolic meaning, arranged about the hall.

The evening show typically does not begin until around eight, which gave us an opportunity to begin with drinks. While shandies and other sparkling options seemed more fitting to the atmosphere, the bartender recommended I try the Pink Mojito. Though the added grenadine initially gave me a start, after the second sip, I was able to appreciate this mojito with the appropriate balance of steep in price but stiff in spirit. My guest had a Virgin Colada, served in a giant fun-sized goblet the size of a fishbowl.

TMSK has a number of arranged meals that you can pick from in addition to ordering in the traditional sense. We opted for the first dish set, with the promising label, ‘Extraordinary’ which carries with it heavy expectations. A selection of breads was accompanied by three sauces: fermented carrot, pesto and peanut sauce. The bread was fresh, the pesto the best. The first step of ‘Extraordinary’ was the ‘Tiny Dish of Chef’s Sincerity’, which today was a spoonful of smoked salmon topped with caviar in a miniature spring roll wrap. Crispy and light, the salmon just enough to tickle my tastebuds. This was followed by the ‘TMSK Classic Appetizer Plate’, a glazed pork slice, a slice of beef shank and shredded vegetable medley with tofu. While not necessarily ‘extroadinary’ in taste, each carried its own special flavor and was only enhanced by the environment.

The wild Mushroom Café Soup with Cappuccino, a frothy foam its cap, was strong in taste, the cappuccino offering a slight edge to the varied mushrooms, which had their own bite.

With the appearance and more importantly, the taste, I was able to appreciate the ‘Extraordinary’ in the Roasted Cumin Crusted Lamb Chop With Curry Rice. The cumin crust added a texture rarely found at any Xin Jiang lamb kabob stall, using choice lamb shanks, roasted to an appealing soft pink. The curry rice also had a soft cumin-touch, with a slightly sweet taste.
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My companion ordered the Homemade Totellini in Lobster Sauce with Asparagus & Cherry Tomato. Helping myself to half of the lobster, I was able to enjoy the juicy crusted lobster as well. The totellini and the lobster sauce were excellent alongside cherry tomatoes.

Finishing the entrees and on my second glass of wine, the words ‘Lantern Gazing’ were superimposed on the stage’s black screen. It rose to reveal traditional costumes and instruments - the zither, pipa and the haunting, yet peaceful erhu - alongside more modern instruments, one of which was an electric guitar. The beats were a mix of the ancient, from instrumental to Suzhou Opera style singing to rifts that may have passed for free-style Zhou Jie Lun rap. The various songs and acts contained wardrobe changes and music styles from mixes to salsas to electronic.

Our dessert was a collection of four delicious treats: a fruit tart with kiwi, mango and other citric fruits, an organic pudding with a crisp crème-brule like top and a cookie crust, a decadently rich, chocolate brownie and a triple-layer shot of raspberry, cheese and apricot creams. With each being no more than two to three bite sizes, I was able to enjoy four varied tastes without the guilt..

During a particularly soothing rift, I tipped my flute of Dom Pierre sparkling wine to TMSK’s staff whom were polite and professional throughout the meal, each playing the expected role you’d want in a restaurant that while quite dear in price, was first class all the way. Leaning back in my chair, I took in the magical atmosphere of TMSK as hypnotic sites and sounds swirled around me.

The lower floor and patio seating that looks onto Xin Tian Di’s water fountain are an economical choice for the lunch crowd and those who are in for a simpler, yet attractive meal. Do not forget to visit the attached art gallery that showcases some of Liuli’s work, which has price tags for interested buyers. Even washing your hands becomes a visual treat at TMSK.

-- by Kevin Smith

Service quality: 
excellent
Food quality: 
excellent
Price per head (RMB): 
400-500
Environment: 
excellent
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