Best Food In China

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Mosto’s brunch is everything it should be—exceptional food, warm and attentive service and an upbeat atmosphere--an all-too-short respite from the urbanity that is Beijing.

My mimosa was crisp and cold, with a citrus twist and just enough champagne fizz--it was the perfect start to Sunday brunch. As my partner and I began our meal at Mosto, overlooking the NaLi patio, the stakes were high, as we had both been told that it was one of the finest brunch experiences we could hope for in Beijing. The main reason for these great expectations is the range of experience wielded by Chef Daniel Urdaneta. The award winning chef has apprenticed under some the industry elite, and even prepared courses for the James Beard Foundation Awards Dinner, the Oscars of the food world.

As we sipped our breakfast cocktails we gazed over the modern yet intimate environment that makes Mosto a crowd favorite. The restaurant is dominated by a large textured brick wall, interspersed with votive candles. The floor to ceiling windows provides enough natural light to soften the loft like space. International beats pulse in the background. Our contentment is broken by the arrival of our first course—the chef-recommended salmon ceviche and a watercress salad with apples and blue cheese. Many foodies believe that the dining experience begins with the eyes and the ceviche, confettied with tri-colored peppers and a dollop of guacamole, was visually delicious. The taste, unsurprisingly, was out of this world—it was the perfect marriage of rich salmon, smooth avocado, zesty peppers brought together by just the right amount of lime. The salad was the perfect off-set to the ceviche, with its fresh, classic flavors. The crunchy, leafy watercress was sprinkled with blue cheese, candied hazelnuts and apples. A refreshing twist on a traditional restaurant offering.

For our main course, we tried the black truffle risotto (95 RMB) and tuna steak salad (120 RMB), recommended by the manager, Alex. Under his guidance, Mosto runs like a well-oiled machine - Alex visits every table at least once in the meal, topping off wine glasses, offering recommendations or simply to chat. Without a doubt, his recommendations are spot-on. The black truffle risotto is topped with generous shavings of its namesake and a large, parmesan crisp. The textural combination of the salty crispiness of the parmesan and rich smokiness of the risotto was sublimely satisfying. The tuna steak, cooked to a perfect medium, was served with a side of arugula and roasted peppers. The firm flesh of the tuna carried a meaty taste from the grill marks and paired well with the roasted peppers. The spicy, lightly dressed arugula was a unique and refreshing side that maintained the lightness of the dish.

Of course, a little something sweet is key to a good brunch and Mosto doesn’t disappoint. Our cardamom crème brulee (45 RMB) was spiced with a tinge of cardamom, while staying true to its custard roots. The glassy sugar crust added the right amount of crunch to every bite. The lemon sorbet (40 RMB) was eye popping—a perfect orb of yellow served in a martini glass—the sour factor was out of this world. There was just one final piece to a perfect brunch, coffee. We finished our meal quietly sipping on our espresso (served with a house-made Grand Marnier chocolate), gazing on the hustle and bustle of the NaLi patio. Mosto’s brunch is everything it should be—exceptional food, warm and attentive service and an upbeat atmosphere--an all-too-short respite from the urbanity that is Beijing.

Cuisine Style: Contemporary with Latin American influence

Ambience / Interior: Modern, candlelit brick dominates dining space creating a quaint and romantic atmosphere. Large windows creates airiness and enlarges the intimate space. The bar is dark and broading, but is softened by the warm and attentive service.

Who To Invite: co-workers, special occasion, date

What’s Good: Tuna steak, black truffle risotto, ceviche

Could Be Better: Wine by the glass prices are on the high end

Drinks: mimosa, bellini, south American chardonnay

Music: moderate and upbeat

Critic Opinion: Maintains it reputation as the pinnacle of high end latin-inspired cuisine. Service, quality of ingredients, chef creativity and atmosphere amongst the best in Beijing.

-- by Phoenix Torrijos

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