Astor Grill offers great food, an inviting atmosphere, attentive service in the midst of Beijing and is a fine example of the excellence cuisine the St Regis has to offer.
The St Regis Hotel features many fine restaurants, but Astor Grill stands out as an exceptional purveyor of contemporary cuisine. Known for their steaks, seafood, the Astor Grill sits on a prime corner location in the hotel, affording terrace diners with sweeping views of the St Regis courtyard and the expanse of the Jianguomen area landscape. The interior of beige marble with dark wood accents is warm and inviting, but given my choice (and the cooperation of the weather), I’d rather enjoy the seclusion of the terrace area. Protected from the outside world by an ivy-covered fence, the outdoor patio offers a sense of seclusion from the hustle and bustle of Beijing. American Jazz and Blues play in the background, setting a relaxed pace for the evening.
We chose the set menu (RMB178), which featured a sampling of what Astor Grill is know for: Seafood and steak. Before the first course arrived, we enjoyed a plate of their house made bread—a mini loaf of wheat and a mini loaf of garlic-butter swirled white bread. The bread was soft and sweet on the inside and flaky crisp on the outside—delicious. We also sampled their rose tea. Blood red and slightly sour, it was a unique take on this traditional offering. We also chose a Woodhaven Shiraz Rose (RMB360 a bottle) to accompany our meal. Our first course, a mixed seafood plate with smoked salmon, scallop on the half shell and crispy fish stick was beautifully presented on a glass platter. The smoked salmon was rich and luscious and the fish stick was perfectly coated and fried. Next, we enjoyed a palate cleanser, lemon sorbet, which was not too sweet, nor too sour and an ideal set up for our main course—the mixed grill. Our entrée featured a small veal steak, beef filet and a roasted lamb chop, with a complement of mixed veggies, sitting in a swath of Shiraz wine jus and drizzled with chimichirri sauce. The steak, cooked to a house standard medium, was juicy and tender, and rather robust when tasted next to the creamier veal steak. The lamb chop was a balance of meat and fat. The plate was a great comparison between different grades of tenderness and gaminess and we all thoroughly enjoyed it. Lastly, we ordered the rose crème brulee and espresso. The espresso was the typical Italian coffee—cocoa-y and bitter. The crème brulee was also standard, although missing the sugar candy glaze that is typically served with a crème brulee.
Astor Grill offers great food, an inviting atmosphere and attentive service in the midst of Beijing and is prime example of the excellence cuisine the St Regis has to offer.
Ambience / Interior: Large airy atrium setting dwarf a large buffet spread. Nightly live music echoes thru the cavernous space.
Who To Invite: co-workers, family,
What’s Good: Steak, bread
Could Be Better: Seafood
Drinks: Rose Wine, espresso
Music: American Jazz and Blues
Critic Opinion: Fine European cuisine served on a secluded terrace
-- by Phoenix Torrijos